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Forum
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RE: GFCI
I think your initial post - GFCI - generated thoughts about that tripping rather than the breaker in the panel box. No insult meant, but sometimes those not familiar with electricity may refer to a GFCI as a breaker and visa versa.
The breakers should be available at most hardware stores - Lowes, HD, etc.
If this happens only on 1 or 2 different receptacles AND always trips the same breaker it is likely on the same circuit and there is some other stuff already consuming power or you may have a weak breaker. It doesnt have to be old. Perhaps 'sensitive' would be a better word.
Any form of electric heating is very resource intensive. They will use lots of power. Hair dryers/blow dryers, toasters, coffee pots, etc.
I suggest this:
Map out your rig. Use a plug in lamp of some sort and plug it into every socket in your rv. Flip each breaker on/off to see which breaker controls that receptacle. You also need to watch the fixed appliances - Microwave, A/C, refrigerator, etc...see what else is on each breaker when turning them on/off. You should then be able to determine why the selected outlets trip when using that heater.
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wittmeba
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11/17/08 08:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Landmark or Carriage
We have been looking at Heartland too, but not in the range. We have been looking at the Big Country.
I do think it is great that you have two great choices to pick from. Make sure you select for the right reasons are comfortable regardless of which you pick.
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wittmeba
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11/17/08 06:08pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: I'm confused!
I dont understand your numbers. What is 1642? Where did this come from and how was it derived? Does your truck weigh 7358#?
Your truck should have a GVWR of 9000#. If the truck with passengers, fuel, cargo, etc weighs 6800# then what you can carry is 2200#.
Every truck will be different. The numbers published by the mfg in a brochure are a 2 wheel drive, smallest motor, manual tranny, std cab and no options. Thats how they get the rating so high...Problem is no one buys a truck like that to do any serious hauling or towing. So the truck weight goes up (options we add like diesel, auto, A/C, King Cab, etc...) but the rating stays the same.
Another important comment - I believe from what some post that when a mfg publishes a haulable weight that the buyer thinks the truck will set level as long as you dont exceed that weight - never happen.
If you are concerned with droop and dont want to upgrade your truck, consider Airbags. They work well to put your truck back to level << within reason.
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wittmeba
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11/17/08 12:39pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: I'm confused!
This has always been a problem. The TV ability to tow (horizontal pulling power) and the hauling (vertical load rating) are not in sync. And the 5th wheels are getting heavier all the time...pin weights going up too.
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wittmeba
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11/17/08 05:55am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: accidentally unlocked my slider
You may in fact altered the interdynamic gravitational forces of a newly formed planet in the Altama Gamma IV system. Sheeeeesh! ;)
Funny!
No, you wouldnt have any damage. There is/are mfgs that use adapter plates rather than providing a slide mechanism that moves the hitch back 11" or so. This is a low budget way to accommodate short beds without a slider hitch design.
Doing this for any reason (including design) just takes away from the 5th wheel design and towing integrity. Doesnt mean you are going to go wreck...
Improved your mileage? You must have a pretty sophisticated means of measuring. :)
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wittmeba
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11/17/08 05:50am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Water Heater Plug
I agree with Sailor - try some of these. I had to get 1 for the plug in my transmission to install the temperature sensor. It was about 7/16" rounded and they did work. Never slipped once.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934505000P?mv=rr
Great $25.00 well spent.
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wittmeba
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11/16/08 07:12pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: What is too high? 5er over bed rails
These are from 2007, but it is interesting how much variation there is. This is what the 5th wheel mfgs have to deal with.
3/4 ton
http://www.pickuptrucks.com/trucks/IMAGES/2007/shootout/squat/squatthreequarter.jpg
1 ton
http://www.pickuptrucks.com/trucks/IMAGES/2007/shootout/squat/squatoneton.jpg
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wittmeba
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11/16/08 11:51am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Unloaded PSI for E Rated Tires?
I had the same question you had so i went to the tire store today and they gave me a chart that had all LT tires on it with weight and psi. With your sizes tires 45psi carry over axle weight would be 2540, 50psi 2755 55psi 2925 60psi 3110 65psi 3305. hope this helps
Mike,
Id like to better understand your post. What was the tire brand, size and max load rating? You stopped at 65 psi. I dont know of a tire that has a limit of 65 psi. Just trying to verify what I have posted for a formula.
Here is what mine would be for the numbers you posted:
Load/Max Load * Max PSI = Calculation for Revos at max load of 3415
The 3415 needs to reflect the load for YOUR tires.
Load MLoad MPsi Calc PSI
2540 / 3415 (*80) = 59.50
2755 / 3415 (*80) = 65.54
2925 / 3415 (*80) = 68.52
3110 / 3415 (*80) = 72.86
3305 / 3415 (*80) = 77.42
3415 / 3415 (*80) = 80.00
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wittmeba
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11/16/08 11:02am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Have a question for superglide owner?
Here are some links to Pullrite for additional information - you might read the maintenance to get an idea of where 'they' think there will be wear.
User information:
http://www.pullrite.com/superglide_user.htm
Owners manual:
http://www.pullrite.com/pdfs/SuperGlide%20Owners%20Manual%20%205-25-07.pdf
You will have to invest in a capture plate if you dont get one from the seller - needs to fit your pinbox - keep that in mind with the price. Also rails if the seller doesnt include them too.
http://www.pullrite.com/superglide_capt.htm
18K brand new:
http://www.bigdiscountrv.com/fifthwheel_pullrite.htm
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wittmeba
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11/16/08 08:57am |
Towing
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RE: Unloaded PSI for E Rated Tires?
Everyone keeps saying "Max sidewall pressure", the sidewall of an LT tire does not provide max pressures. What it states is the MINIMUM psi required to support the stated maximum load. You may use higher pressures but it will not increase load rating.
You may be right about LT's, but this is what is on my Revos. This is what mine says (I just went out and wrote it down):
Load Range E
Max Load Single
1550 Kg (3415 Lbs) @ 550 kPa (80 PSI Max Pressure)
Max Load Double
1400 (3085 Lbs) @ @ 550 kPa (80 PSI Max Pressure)
Why would anyone run higher pressures than what is recommended for Max load? Doesnt make any sense.
I still say scale your PSI to the load.
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wittmeba
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11/15/08 04:15pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Trailer brake controller
GAwingrider
I think DakotaD is referring to the plug/connector under the dash not an actual brake controller as you asked.
The plug/connector referenced should be connected to the 6 pin at the rear bumper. If you dont readily see a brake controller, it either never had one or it has been removed.
What you should need:
- Brake controller
Dont know if you will find a connector that will match your brake controller and the vehicle - so...
- Connector to match your vehicle with pigtails
- Connector to match your brake controller with pigtails(see my link)
You will need to connect the wires from the controller pigtails to the connector for your vehicle pigtails together per the instructions - very easy. This might help (maybe not...):
http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmeier/images/BCConnOptions.jpg
Here is some wiring information you can use to verify once you install a controller.
http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm
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wittmeba
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11/15/08 09:25am |
Towing
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RE: Unloaded PSI for E Rated Tires?
I agree with those who say scale the PSI to the actual weight. You always have some weight - even unloaded. The front may be different than the rear and thats ok.
If you have a dually, always use the highest of the 4 rear and make them all the same.
These are actual sidewall max weights and max pressures. My formula:
http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmeier/technical/TirePressureFormula.jpg
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wittmeba
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11/15/08 08:35am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: What programmer (chip) should I buy?
I didn't realize there's a difference between a "chip" & a "tuner"--I figured they were the same thing, different names. Dave
You have a chip in your stock vehicle. Some choose to replace the chip with a programmed chip. This is usually more work but I believe adds some benefit too. There are chips that allow you to 'change-on-the-fly' with a small knob/dial. I believe Jody at DP-Tuner does these too.
Using an SCT tuner (or Edge, BullyDog, Hypertech, etc) you have to stop, turn off your motor, install the new tune (about 40-50 seconds) and then you are ready to go. Not a big deal, just not able to dial in as some of the others.
I dont know what happens if you ever have to take your vehicle in for service to a Ford dealer with a modified chip. Im sure they can handle it somehow.
They will reset the tune to their current stock tune with a tuner...so you have to save your old tune (restore back to stock) before going in for service.
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wittmeba
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11/15/08 08:22am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Trailer brake controller
Usually a 6 or 7 pin connector suggests a brake controller should be there. It should be very obvious - not hidden as it is adjusted when you connect your trailer. It you dont immediately see one, then I suspect it has been removed.
There are only a few considerations Id recommend. Look here under brake controllers:
http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmeier/technical/LinksRelatedRVing.html
How long you intend to keep your vehicle should be a factor in selecting your brake controller. If you plan to keep it and continue towing, get a good controller - BrakeSmart or MasterBrake.
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wittmeba
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11/14/08 05:22pm |
Towing
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RE: Fuel economy
PopBeavers,
Good ideas with the different Cruise control. I too would like to see one that would allow the vehicle to slow slightly when encountering an incline that would not make the truck downshift to maintain speed. That is the biggest reason I dont use CC much at all. Something where I could specify how much deceleration to allow.
I80 across most of Nevada at 3 AM comes to mind. << Made the run to Vegas from SFV a few times - they wanted you there as fast as possible - to lose your money. :)
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wittmeba
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11/14/08 10:30am |
General RVing Issues
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Fuel economy
Just a week ago or so they had a special on the local news where they took a vehicle and did various things to change mileage.
They used the same vehicle going in both directions over a 60 mile drive (I think).
They ran the vehicle stock - up and back using some semi-sophisticated instrumentation - dont recall exactly, but better than our seat-of-the-pants.
They put a piece of plastic over some or all of the opening in the air cleaner and ran a test.
They did runs with the A/C on and A/C off.
They did several acceleration tests starting from 0 to 50 in XX seconds, then 0 - 50 in YY seconds. I think the time was 8 hard accel and 12 for lower accel seconds.
They ran 50 psi then another with 30 psi - same vehicle same tires.
The range of change in mileage with the air cleaner plugged was like 3.5% decrease. I also read here that the dirty air cleaner is somewhat of a myth. If enough air gets thru, your vehicle wont know the difference.
Fuel Economy Myths
The A/C made a difference of I believe about 5%.
The change with the hard acceleration was 5% as well.
The change with the reduced air pressure was 8.5% most significant of them all.
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wittmeba
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11/13/08 05:28pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Backing up a fifth wheel
I have found that one of the most important elements is being parallel and adjacent to the pad/site area or parking place.
We lay a broom on the ground and it helps a great deal. Once parallel, its just a matter of how deep you want to be to place your RV door in the right place.
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wittmeba
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11/13/08 05:08pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Keeping a fifth wheel in top condition
Easy...mama gets the inside and I get the outside.
Keep it clean especially when storing.
Put bounce in various places when in storage.
Do lots of preventive maintenance.
Prop the fridge open when storing.
Lysol, Windex and other cleaners can help. Use lots - wipe down everything.
Lubricate everything that is suppose to move - door latches, hinges, springs, key holes for basement storage, stabalizer and electric jacks.
Do a walk around with a can of WD40 and hit everything - it will help reduce rust too.
Dont forget to go camping too. Some things wear out faster just sitting and weathering than being used. :)
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wittmeba
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11/13/08 05:04pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Waste engineering
I agree that the house and trailer are the same when in use, but it was mentioned that if the P traps go dry, there may be a path for the smell. It could happen in a home too.
Personally, I dont have a problem with what others express concerns - having black water in the gray tanks as they is still only 1 drain pipe - and it works for both.
I dont intentionally open the gray and black to balance, but the waste tube is just that black, gray, green, yellow, etc. Waste is waste - just because you call it gray water draining out the sewer connector doesnt make it much more pure.
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wittmeba
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11/13/08 04:55pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Airbags or Timbren rubber spring helpers
I also have a 16k Reese Signature series hitch and was told that I wouldn't be able to put airbags on the truck because of the bracket for the hitch.
Mine isnt a Signature Series but the older version that just used the L brackets. Im sure there is still a solution, but may take a little more work and perhaps drilling. Even with the long drillless brackets, I see that as only another layer to drill thru for the upper air bag brackets. Maybe a sheet metal fab shop could help with a solution.
If your brackets are like these in the photos, it shouldnt be a problem.
http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmeier/technical/AirLiftAirBagInstallation.htm
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wittmeba
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11/13/08 04:44pm |
Tow Vehicles
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